How is a foures workshop bag or wallet made?
Cutting is a very important job in a leather workshop.
It will make it possible to supply all the teams with raw materials for the manufacture of bags and small leather goods. The rhythm of the cut is very important so as not to create breaks in the rest of the production.
Leather is a natural material, on which there are many defects: scars, pimples, pitting, flabby appearance, wrinkles... The quality of the cut will strongly determine the final appearance of the product. Cutters must judge the quality of the piece to be cut and find the ideal location on the skin for each piece needed to make the bags and wallets. They must avoid prohibitive defects and place small defects in inconspicuous places (under seams for example).
Leather represents approximately 25% of the final cost of the product. The cutter must therefore minimize the scrap rate to keep the workshop profitable. He always combines small pieces to be cut with large pieces, in order to work around defects more easily and avoid waste by throwing away large pieces of leather. At the end of its optimization work, there are only a few unusable millimeters left.
Each piece that makes up a bag or wallet is cut with a cookie cutter, using an arm press or a bridge press.
Preparation involves 3 steps:
- The siglage which consists of printing the logo by hot stamping.
Each signed piece is placed in a template, in order to print precisely at the desired location.
- Splitting, which consists of refining a piece of leather.
Our leather is between 1.4 and 1.6 mm thick. The leather parts of some items need to be refined. For example, all the leather parts of a wallet are split between 0.6 and 1 mm, otherwise the wallet would be much too thick.
- Trimming, which consists of refining only the edges of a piece.
- The rim consists of applying a layer of glue to the place of trimming, then folding the leather back on itself. Trimming upstream limits the thickness of the rim and allows the leather to fold up well.
This produces a clean and very resistant slice of leather.
First of all, the pieces requiring an edge are reedged, as explained previously, in order to have beautiful edges of leather. Then we assemble all the pieces together (leather, linings, reinforcements, etc.), with glue or double-sided.
We have two assembly tables, with specific know-how: the "bag table" and the "small leather goods table".
At the bag table, there are few fitters, because there are few parts to assemble. In small leather goods, it's the opposite, because there are a lot of small parts that make up a wallet: inner tray, outer tray, linings, credit card slot, flaps, coin pocket, coin bellows, bill pocket, zips, pressure …
Once the products have been assembled, they are stitched in series on a sewing machine.
Several assembly and spade steps are often necessary and alternate to manufacture a product. Many round trips then take place between the assembly and the pike.
Here, the ratio between the number of bag pickers and small leather goods pickers is reversed. Indeed, the distances to be stitched on bags are much greater than on small leather goods.
That's it, your leather bag and leather wallet look like the final product. Well almost ! Here, we pay attention to detail and our finishing teams will take care of:
- Edge the bags: this involves sewing a braid around the stitched edges in order to hide the thicknesses of leather, reinforcements and fabrics, for an impeccable finish.
- Turning Bags: Most bags are mounted and stitched inside out, then turned over after being tucked in.
- Burn the threads: after the spade, many threads protrude from the products. We cut them using a wire burner fitted with a hot tip.
- Place the shoulder straps.
- Pamper the leather: using shearling, we polish the leather to make it shine and remove any scratches made during the various manufacturing stages. As it is a leather not covered with pigments, under the effect of heat and friction, the scratches disappear completely.
- Place labels, box and package products.
It is during all these finishing stages that we carry out a final rigorous quality control for guaranteed satisfaction...
Finally, your product is ready and just waiting for one thing: to meet you!